We were on our way to Croagh Patrick, a holy mountain and Catholic pilgrimage site located a few miles outside Westport in Murrisk (see the map at the bottom). At 765m this mountain is a prominent feature of the landscape, and is immediately identifiable with its symmetrical conical peak. St Patrick, the patron saint of Ireland, spent 40 days and nights fasting at the top, and thousands and thousands of people climb the mountain every year, many for religious reasons (some even in their bare feet). I was maybe 15 years younger the last time I made it to the top and it was every bit as tough this time around, but it struck me how I hadn't even remotely appreciated the beauty of the climb all those years ago. Maybe it was youth and my obliviousness to the wonders of the Irish countryside, or maybe it was because of the usually abysmal weather conditions, but I had never noticed before how stunningly beautiful the views are and how privileged it felt to be climbing this amazing mountain. The warm camaraderie amongst climbers is genuine and spontaneous; everyone lends a hand where needed and offers words of encouragement, and the feeling of achievement to finally reach the top and see the serene little windswept chapel waiting there, is truly beyond description. Although I was in bits for several days afterwards it cleared my head like nothing else, and I have to say that I really enjoyed the climb. I found it difficult and scary in parts but it also made me quite profoundly emotional in the best possible way, and I'm so grateful that I was able to complete it...
Achill Island
I loved Achill. It's the right kind of remote, and is packed full of beautiful scenery and history. The light and the colours were not what I expected; it was all turquoise blues and greens and despite the rain at the beginning of our tour, the air felt soft and quite benign, if that makes any sense. I can understand why it was (and still is) such a magnet for artists, including Paul Henry, who lived there between 1910 and 1919 - while I'm definitely no expert, I am familiar with some of his work and I could absolutely see the inspiration for the purple mountains and big clouds that feature in many of his paintings (see this lovely website!).
Westport to Leenane
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So, that was Mayo! There's loads to do and see in this part of the country, and here are some maps to help you get your bearings... in addition to the Lonely Planet one below right, I came across another handy map of Achill Island online (just click on the download link on the site). I had a mighty time bopping around with my mam and aunts and sisters, and would love to return for a longer visit next time. The coastline is just as beautiful as anywhere on the Wild Atlantic Way but without the massive crowds - make sure you check it out!